Merdeka in no-man's island

I went out of state during the Merdeka break. At least it's not out of the country and I did witness the hyper-activities at Merdeka Square and PWTC on the eve of the celebration - through the LRT that is. My bus going out of state was at 11pm but just so I didn't have to endure sardine-packed public transport and risk being late, I was up in the LRT by 8:45pm. It was quite empty by the way and I could actually choose my seat. The bus ride out of state wasn't so smooth though. It got stuck in the massive city jam and it took a while to get out of the city. After that, it sped on the highway and had illegal races with the other bus from the same company all the way to Terengganu. Heck with all the checks by the road transport department, I arrived in Dungun at 4.30am. Fortunately Dungun is the hometown of one of my travelling companions and we headed to her 'kampung' house to get some sleep.

By 5.30am, the roosters were having singing competitions and it was as loud as if they were inches from you. Because the kampung animals knew we were from the city, they tried showing us some stunts, like the cat that ran across us while we slept all over the living room floor, sped up the ceiling (no joke), out the back door and back through the window again. He or she repeated this a few times.

We left early and had a pleasant long walk to the market, passing by the lake, the sea shore, jetties, boats and such. I don't think I'd ever walk the same path again since there's none like that in the big city. Such serenity! The breakfast at the market was also delicious. Nasi dagang with curry and fish for RM1, nasi pulut with fish, salted fish and grated coconut for RM1 and the rest on the menu like laksam, laksa, nasi lemak, all at a mere RM1. I think I'll try getting myself transferred there for work. Maybe as ground staff so I could finally tell people that I am working for an airline and yes, I am ground staff.


We went for a walk through the wet market and bought some more junk food and biscuits like we were going to live on those for the next three days. I thought only East Malaysia had sago biscuits but it seems in Dungun, they make better sago biscuits. They're bigger in size, richer in taste and a lot less expensive - RM2.50 for a big packet. These biscuits are so crunchy and yet they melt in your mouth. The whole pack were long gone by Day 2. Anyone going to Dungun soon? I want 10 packets of that....


We took the boat to Pulau Tenggol (Island of Tenggol) after breakfast. Wish I hadn't had so much. Since the terrifying Bako boat ride that had me thinking it was the end of me, I've had phobia riding in boats. My hands were cluthced furiously on any metal I could get hold of or anyone's legs for that matter. Thankfully it was an OK ride and not too bumpy.


Not many people, even Malaysians, know about Pulau Tenggol. Telling people that I'm heading there is almost like telling people I'm heading to a place called Nowhere. Thanks to the very efficient tourism industry, no one could find this island on maps and its almost never publicised which is good for me and my travel buddies. We were a group of eight out of less than sixty people on the whole island. There were only twenty chalets, some of which were quite rundown. Mine was at the far end, balancing on four poles. A short hike up through the greens is required but once you open the windows and the balcony door, the breathtaking view awaits. The beach, the sea and coconut trees!! I'd give this view a rating of nine, losing only by one point to the breathtaking view of paddy fields in Bali's Narasoma. If only the chalet was better kept, I'd give it a ten.


There's one thing about being on islands in the East coast. The only source of power is via the generators and if you needed a bath between 9am to 7pm, it has to be cold bath. So cold bath it is although I don't really know why I bothered since I jumped into the sea right after.


The whole island is covered with white sand as soft as cotton - great for those foot scrubs that you don't have time for. In fact, if you've paid a hundred for full body scrub before, it's just gimmick because here, you get it for free - natural sea salt scrub that is. All you have to do is roll yourself on the beach.

personal spa station

The sea is so crystal clear that you can go snorkelling at the beach. Yes, there are actually fish swimming just few inches from the beach. If you get seasick by snorkeling in the deeper sea like me, then this place is for you. Save the rental money for snorkelling mask, flippers and life jacket, all you need is a pair of goggles and a walk down the sea to waist-deep level. But beware of micro organisms (biology coming back to me). They hit you in dozens at one go. I got a dozen bites on the second day at one of the spots I'd call 'my personal spa station' and they itch till today! Enough about the beach, I spent the rest of my time sleeping on the beach like a beachbum, reading work stuff (yucks, I know) and staring at the stars at night. I've not seen shooting stars since I was a kid but I saw two here. I could've seen more if only I'd kept my eyes open! Here's to hoping my two wishes come true. I've forgotten about geography and astronomy, but stars never move from their spot, ever. OK, laugh all you want now.

beachbum in action

It really sounds like I've just been to a heavenly trip but actually there's more to it. Like - the lights to my challet didn't turn on after 7pm and finally after they've repaired it, there was no water. I took my toothbrush with toothpaste to the dining area like no one's business and brushed my teeth there while the divers who were having some night snack looked curiously at me. I told them the story about the power and the water supply and all they could say was if I didn't already know this is "survival island". True enough, it is because on the second night, the key to the chalet broke in two before the door was opened and I couldn't get to the toilet. Thankfully the big sea is just a few steps away. But my things!!! AArgh..... It is really safe to leave your things unlocked though. After all, it's real easy to check on sixty people and ransack their challets for any lost item. They couldn't be further off than the deep sea anyway.

On the last day, before we got into the boat, we were told to wear waterproof jackets because there were some big waves out there. Flashes of the Bako boat trip came back to me. Would I make it alive the second time through? I had no choice but to go up on the boat. I chose to sit on top of some bags on the floor board, next to where the driver stood. The bags had diving suits that would possibly help me keep afloat in the sea if I grabbed on to it. Thankfully the waves weren't so big and I survived with only a few drops of sea water that hit my face!

Our ride back to the city was supposed to arrive at 2pm, enough time for us to have lunch and shop a little. I was hoping that we could go to the market again but the four wheel drive left us at the bus stop. There goes my sago biscuits! We had an early lunch at one of the nearby stalls. I had a glass of lime juice, rice with brinjals, cucumber cooked in thick gravy and fish. All these for RM2.50. I thought Indonesia was cheap. Malaysia is cheap too! If you're not in any big towns or cities that is.

As with any other Malaysian services, the bus didn't arrive at 2pm. We were stuck under the hot sun at the bus stop with nothing to do for almost an hour. From being wet in the boat ride and now dried under the sun and drenched in sweat again, it isn't very pleasant.

Would I go to Pulau Tenggol again? Maybe....but if I had the choice, I'd choose Lang Tengah. My next target will be Perhentian or maybe Gemia. Or Bali since I don't have to ride in a boat to get to the island. Haaa.....